Nomadic Vision

Portrait of a Nompumulelo child dreaming of being a star.

I had one goal for our three week trip to South Africa – a township shoot. I’ve realized that township may be a word only recognized in South Africa, so here is my own interpretation of what a township is:

In South Africa, there is a large gap between the rich and the poor (the second largest in the world). Generally, the poor end up working for the rich as cleaners, gardeners and so on. Outside of every major affluent area, there is an area where the “poor” set up a temporary home. Initially, they look like slums (squatter camps), but once permanent residents begin to settle, houses are built (by the government) and the squatter camp gets referred to as a township

A double story shack in Nompumulelo. A ladder on the side of the building is used to access the second floor.

Soweto is South Africa’s best known township and is quite a tourist attraction these days. Specialized tours give an insight into the cultures around the major townships found in South Africa, but East London has yet to capitalize on the tourist interest (as is often the case).

Life is beautiful in Nompumulelo, a township in the Eastern Cape of South Africa where the fortunate people live off about two hundred pounds a month. Would you believe me if I told you that I deliberately timed the shot so that both children were in the air

The Let Down

About 2 months before our trip, I started researching different options for touring through a local township in East London called Nompumulelo. It soon became apparent that there was no official tour, so I started looking for guides to take me through the township (security is a major issue in most townships).

It turned out, that because of the season, I wasn’t able to organize a guide, so by the last day in South Africa, I still had not managed a shoot.

Desperate Measures

The last day was a perfect day for photography – overcast, which made me even more disappointed that I couldn’t do the shoot.  This is when I thought, ” that’s what travel insurance is for” and got my gear ready for the shoot. Luckily my father in law got wind of my plan and volunteered to drive me through Nompumulelo so I had a bit more security.

The Result

I spent about an hour in Nompumulelo (not nearly enough). At first, adrenaline pumped through my veins as I considered everything that could go wrong, but as usual, the security issue was vastly over exaggerated. Everyone I photographed turned out to be relaxed, friendly and helpful.

Portrait of a Nompumulelo resident displaying his lines of wisdom.

It was quite an eye opener seeing township life in person. Most people live on the brink of poverty, yet there is a tangible sense of optimism and joy. Young children play football (soccer) surrounded by rubbish, but seem completely content doing what children do best – playing.

I spend some time in a hair salon that many people would pity, but I thought to myself, here is someone with no education and no start-up capital, successfully running her own business.  I encountered a similar theme throughout Nompumulelo. It was inspirational to see people making the most of appalling conditions.

Exterior of a township salon

2010 World Cup

If you happen to be visiting South Africa for the World Cup, do yourself a favour and book a township tour. Even if you don’t get great shots, the experience will change you.

Sorry to those who had asked to come with on the shoot. As you may have already realized, it was a complete last minute decision. Hopefully we can organize another shoot some time.

A highway separates the Nompumulelo township from the more upmarket suburb of Beacon Bay in East London, South Africa.

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