Nomadic Vision

This is part 2 in an in depth travel photography series on the Eastern Cape, South Africa. If you missed part 1, check out The Wildlife here.

Wild Coast

Head down to the beach in the Eastern Cape and an un-spoilt, wild coastline is what you will discover along almost the entire Eastern Cape coastline. It is not difficult to find a beach where you’ll be the only person for kilometers.

The best stretch of coastline is the aptly name “Wild Coast”. During Apartheid days, the Wild Coast was in the Transkei, a former homeland. Very little development took place in the homelands, leaving the coastline almost completely untouched. When Apartheid ended, the Transkei became part of the Eastern Cape province in South Africa.

Initially, there was a furious land grab with South Africans purchasing prime coastal land off the locals for a few bottles of whiskey. Fortunately, the government saw the potential problem and regulated any land purchases. Any tourist developments since, have been done responsibly, blending the design with the natural environment and getting the locals involved. You won’t find any hideous high rise complexes along this coastline.

Where is it?

The term “wild coast” refers to a 250 kilometer stretch of coastline between the Kei River on the western border and Port Edward on the eastern border. Technically, Morgan’s Bay falls just outside of the region, but because it is one of my favorite places in the world, I’ve included it as part of the Wild Coast.

Just How Wild is it?

About 2 years ago friends of mine were commissioned to navigate a stretch of river in the area. No one had ever been there before, so the map showing the river was mostly educated guesswork. It can be that wild!

The wildness of the coastline is what keeps people coming back. There is a sense of freedom that I have yet to experience anywhere else in the world. Spending time in the wild coast releases some sort of primal energy. It truly is a fantastic place.

That said, if you cannot bare to be without your luxuries, there are some excellent five star lodges and hotels. I haven’t been to many, but two that I can definitely recommend are Mbotyi (the ty make a k sound) and Umngazi River Lodge.

If you’re willing to rough it up a bit, the best option is to try and rent a holiday cabin. I’ve spent some time with friends at Mazeppa Bay in a holiday cabin and both times cost about R10 per night (less than a pound)

What Can I Expect?

Because the coastline covers such a large area, there is quite a lot of diversity, but each spot has a few things in common: un-spoilt coastline, friendly locals, stray cattle and warm weather (mostly).

In my opinion, the wild coast is not marketed very well. This means that most tourists you will meet are savvy travelers from South Africa who will have great travel tips for you. It also means that most of the attractions will seem quite empty (in comparison to tourist traps like the Eiffel Tower). Even the Hole-in-the-Wall, which is the Wild Coast’s best known landmark, should have no more the 50 visitors a day.

One of the reasons for the low turnout is the difficulty in getting to the locations. Driving along the N2 through the Transkei (the Wild West of South Africa) isn’t fun and can be downright dangerous. As soon as you’re off the N2, things get much safer, but the roads deteriorate, sometimes to the point of becoming grass paths. I think it is all part of the adventure though and once you’re at your location, you won’t step back into your car.

The Wild Coast potentially has some of the best surfing conditions in the world. If you’re willing to put in the work, you’ll definitely come home stoked! Most spots are largely undiscovered and you’ll be the only person out.

Travel Tips

• Keep loose change to give to the locals. They tend to serve as car guards and travel guides and appreciate any change you can spare.
• Befriend a few of the locals, they will be more than happy to pose for photographs.
• Hire an off-road vehicle (called a bukie in South Africa). They’re not essential to get to the lodges, but they certainly make life easier.
• Do an image search in Google to help plan your stay, the images will give you a good idea of how the terrain varies at each location. Some areas have pristine beaches, others have nature parks and others have towering ocean cliffs.

Please note…

This article is intended to serve as a brief summary of the Wild Coast to wet your traveling appetite. To give a comprehensive guide, I would need to write a book, which a few authors have already done.

I’ve left out some amazing resorts, attractions and sites. To get the most out of your trip, please do some research or email me for some customized advice.

2 Responses to “The Eastern Cape – Wild Coast”